Project 2a (brakes lines, M/C, RPV) (Tranny rebuild)

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[BiGdAdDeE]

Chuck, do you have a manual when you disassemble the transmissions and transfercases?  Or have you done it enough that you can remember how they go together?

I prefer to read or review any tranny or t-case rebuild whether it’s the first time or multiple times. I write notes as I go along, like if a particular washer has a lip and which way it faces. I’ll group the bolts separately and note the ones that are different lengths and sizes. I also take pics if need be.

I try to obtain the parts needed before the build but once you disassemble the unit you may find it needs some additional parts. For that reason the unit may sit for awhile until the parts comes in this is when it’s nice to have the notes and pics to fall back on if needed. By using the above process I feel confident its done right. 

sound advise and will follow that in my future building/dismantling.

[Posimoto]

After dismantling the tranny I inspected all the parts. Besides the front oil leak the tranny also popped out of second gear on deceleration. There are three conditions that could cause the problem but most times it’s wear of the second gear. In this case it was.

Below, note the chevrons on the left gear as compared to the chevrons on the new gear to the right.  These chevrons are what the clutch hub slide over to lock the tranny in second gear. The wear does not allow the clutch hub a proper gripping area and this can lead to the tranny popping out of second.





Below are 88 countershaft roller bearings, 6 bearing washers, and 1 bearing spacer all mounted on a ¾ wooden dowel (dummy countershaft) with assembly lube.

Also in the pic from left to right, clutch hub, main drive gear with bearing, clutch sleeve, second gear, and countershaft gear set.



I slide the dummy shaft and all the bearing into the countershaft gear set and set it in the bottom of the case. After installing the main drive gear I tap in the countershaft which drives out the dummy shaft.



The main shaft received a new second gear, all new blocking rings, springs, and synchronizer keys. Also mounted are the clutch hub and clutch sleeve.



Main shaft installed



Before and after





   

A thanks to Jeff @ Crown for hunting down the parts.

[Axle]

 

[Posimoto]

I replaced the front and rear bearings as well.

[mika401]

Smoking!

[Posimoto]

After installing the tranny and t-case I took it for a test drive and everything worked as should. Shifts fine with no leaks. Along with the rebuilds I installed a new tranny and t-case mounts, tranny cover, and boots for the three sticks. I still need to set the timing and adjust the carb which I’ll do sometime this week.
 

[Posimoto]

After adjusting the points by hand I checked it on a dwell meter and I was on the money at 41. The timing marks are on the flywheel so I used a mirror to find the mark. I made sure to put whiteout on the timing mark when I had the flywheel out otherwise it would be too difficult to see. Even using whiteout it can be hard to see because the peep hole is tucked under the starter. I locked down the distributor when the timing mark was dead center of the peep hole. I adjusted the carb and checked the resistance of the ignition wires which I’ll replace soon.

The engine runs better then it ever has since I’ve owned it. It amazes me how these little Willys engine can run when their so out of specs. The points were so burnt filing them down wouldn’t help, the timing was off, and the carb needed major adjustments. This is the way I received it and the PO used it for a year or so in that condition.   

[Posimoto]

I gave Jerry some measurements and he made me some blocks for my flattie. He really did a nice job using red oak and drilling all 4 holes dead on (the holes are not equal on both ends by factory specs). He also supplied brass screws.



The blocks were black from the factory so I decided to add some paint.



Thanks Jerry!

[jerry k]

your welcome Posi !



edit; they look great  painted up and installed.

-jerry

[Mitch]

what are the blocks for? did I miss something?

[mika401]

Folding the windshield down or the hood up

[Posimoto]

Used for both, but the main reason for the blocks is to support the windshield while down.

Side note: The 2a hood block height is 1 3/8", I'm using a 3a windshield so the correct block height is 2". The 2a wipers are mounted on top of the windshield and the 3a wipers are mounted on the bottom and need the extra height for clearance. 

[BiGdAdDeE]

were the original rubber or wood? Just curious why use of wood? weather damage, time, cracking etc.

[jeepgod]

original is wood

[Posimoto]

As Todd mentioned the original hood blocks were wood (white oak) that weathered very well. Oak would outlast rubber in the elements I have two sets of original 2a blocks that are not in the best of shape after 64 years but work just the same. One would think with the counter sunk holes there would be water damage but the most it does is rust the screws.

The MB used wood as well and had a grooved channel running on the top of the block with welt attached to it.